Silver is maintaining its top spot as the metal of choice. Son Jung Wan showed a glittery jacket over a mirror-finish asymmetric skirt for a day-into-evening look. Bach Mai softened the metallic look with draped panne velvet for a modern goddess effect. Marc Jacobs shows a sculptural gown festooned with tiny, mirrored discs, while Anna Sui’s separates achieved glam shimmer with silvery paillettes. Sally Lapointe reimagined cargo coveralls in liquid silver, topped with a matching floor-skimming coat for a dramatic yet wearable ensemble.

Nostalgia for the trappings of childhood, ruffles, bows, tutus and oversized jewels, inform fashion this season. Baby the Stars Shine Bright, a “Lolita” fashion brand founded by Akinori and Fumiyo Isobe of Tokyo, showed their grown-up princess dresses in New York this season. Alex S Yu offered various iterations of chiffon ruffled frocks, often layered over pajama-like separates. Marc Jacobs festooned an organza dress with playful colorful jewels, and Anna Sui showed a lace trimmed mini-frock, accessorized with argyle knee socks and the ultimate doll shoe, Mary Janes.

Fur, real or faux, is making a surprise comeback this season, with the most appealing looks going more “quiet luxury” than ostentatious “mob wife”. Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta of Eckhaus Latta trimmed a cropped felted wool jacket with shaggy faux fur. Ulla Johnson showed a creamy plush coat that conjured up 70s glamour, while Prabal Gurung’s boxy jacket was accented with a shearling collar and deep cuffs. Sally LaPointe styled a luxe fur maxicoat over a polished hoodie and leather short-shorts for high-low allure, and 3.1 Phillip Lim created a furry effect with fringed wool bouclé in the season’s must-have shade of winter white.

True workwear, as in coveralls, chore jackets and carpenter’s pants, has been a key touchpoint for fashion the last few seasons. Philip Lim gave his denim trucker jacket a couture-like peplum shape, styled over denim cargo pants that pegged at the ankle. Ulla Johnson shaped her utility jacket with corset lacing, worn over a matching A-line skirt. Anna Sui elevated her chore jacket with tweed sleeves and styled it over cargo pants in plush corduroy — a key fabric this season. Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia of Monse used workwear elements to detail a crisp denim mini-shift, and Phillip Lim showed another variation of the utility suit; this one got its hourglass shape from a rib-knit panel at the waist.