Sometimes what’s old is really new again. I’ve followed the career of Custo Barcelona for many decades and through many iterations, large and small. Now, Custo is back with the same spirit and verve that his past collections have always exhibited.

Global culture is celebrated at Jahnkoy, Sea and Ulla Johnson, motorcycle jackets prove their iconic stature at Rag & Bone, Proenza Schouler and Sukiena, plaids mix mod, grunge and punk influences at Adeam, Vivienne Tam, Snow Xue Gao and Anna Sui, and dimensional sweaters rule at APOTTS, Alejandra Alonso Rojas, Melke and Eckhaus Latta.

Puppets and Puppets may be a cult brand at this point, but it’s drawing a lot of eyes to its thoroughly unique viewpoint. Elevated from last season's show, today I saw wearable and desirable clothing.

Cargo gets elevated at Marc Jacobs, Rag & Bone and Heron Preston, lingerie looks come out from under at Dion Lee, Area and Anna Sui, denim goes artisanal at Derek Lam 10 Crosby and Sally Lapointe, and animal prints continue to evolve with butterfly markings at Prabal Gurung and zebra stripes at Alexander Wang.

I’ve only known about this brand for less than a year. The mother/daughter team of Cynthia and Najla Burt won me over on our first encounter. Such determination!

NYFW kicks off with a happy crafty vibe at Jahnkoy and Bulan, while tailoring gets an update at Terry Singh, Atelier Cillian and Libertine. Florals look right for fall at 3.1 Phillip Lim, Collina Strada and Christian Siriano, and head-to-toe black creates magic at APOTTs, Dion Lee and Jonathan Simkhai.

Victor De Souza’s vision is creative and unique. His collections are not affected by the passage of time, in fact they aim to harmonize the past and the present. In many respects, they are unique and unusual.

Now that the global fashion calendar has shifted and Madison Avenue Men’s Style Month has come to a close, it’s worth a look back at a few of the menswear designers featured at New York Men’s Day (NYMD) for Spring/Summer 2023 who offered looks that directionally celebrated a return to in-real-life interactions.

Theophilio is a Brooklyn born collection designed by Edvin Thompson. The brand celebrates the struggle and overcoming of disadvantages, an inspiring modus operandi.