Delicate chiffons in gentle tints suggest an early spring mood. Sandy Liang was inspired by period-piece films like Picnic at Hanging Rock, the poetically mysterious story of missing Victorian schoolgirls, and Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette, which is a touchpoint for the designer. Those costume drama influences were felt in sweet flounces and built-in bra details, all made modern with insouciant layering. Prabal Gurung, Humanitarian honoree at the upcoming 2022 FGI Night of Stars, draped chiffon for an ethereal goddess top, brought down to earth when styled atop an olive-drab miniskirt. Canadian designer Alex S. Yu showed at the Global Fashion Collective III. Yu layered a diaphanous frock over a stretchy tee and bike shorts, encapsulating the new mix of casualness and romance.

Designer Catherine Holstein of Khaite understands the New York “cool girl” vibe, offering clothes that are both polished and laidback. This time she captured that elegant urban energy with tailored minimalism lightened by subtle whimsy. A snug black knit was shown tucked into a surprisingly wearable bubble skirt in lustrous gray; the same gray satin was cut into an oversized blazer that topped a sheer black turtleneck and fringed skirt. Sandy Liang showed her tailored side with minimalist bras that worked back to matching slim skirts or trousers, accented with utilitarian touches like cargo pockets and half-aprons. A pantsuit with a cropped jacket, one of several that emerged on runways this week, is sure to be a must-have come next spring.

Bright bold stripes are key for next Spring. Studio 189, co-founded by actress Rosario Dawson and luxury-marketing executive, Abrima Erwiah, is a social enterprise brand that is made in, and inspired by, Africa. This season, they titled their collection “Mélange”, a reference to the mix of techniques and materials used, including vivid stripes that were collaged into separates and dresses. Tommy Hilfiger’s “See Now, Buy Now” Fall 2022 collection was shown to an enthusiastic audience, who turned out despite the rain. His signature brightly striped polo knits gained newness from fresh proportions, whether body-skimming or oversized. Victor Barragán for Barragán spoofed traditional American corporate attire with tailored pieces in loud mismatched stripes. Marrisa Wilson took to twitter to announce that her S23 collection is “a celebration of my Guyanese heritage.” That sentiment was expressed with upbeat woven stripes cut into easy silhouettes.

As true denim-heads know, the beloved fabric can be endlessly reinvented with various washes, overdyes, scrubs, coatings and blastings. This season the most appealing denims exploit those artisanal treatments. Prabal Gurung emphasized the corset-influenced structure of his club-ready pieces with a faded treatment that darkened at the seams and edges. Raúl Lopez of Luar was inspired by childhood memories of his Dominican family in Brooklyn in the ’80s and ’90s. His artfully distressed coats and jeans have an heirloom quality. Ulla Johnson worked with a collective in LA who use antique chain stitch machinery, giving her embroidered jeans ensemble a unique look.

Shiny silver is the metal of choice for now and for next spring. Joseph Altuzarra of Altuzarra cut featherweight silver into fluid pleats and gathers, while Eckhaus Latta offered a crisp metallic tee. Kim Jones and Silvia Venturini Fendi showed their Resort 23 Fendi collection in New York to mark the 25th anniversary of their iconic Baguette bag. A silvery chain-mail skirt topped with an intarsia tee captured their high-low approach. Aaron Potts of APOTTS used a foil-like material with a slightly crinkly texture for his gleaming parka and matching boxer shorts.