DAY FIVE: WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 15, 2023
BY SHARON GRAUBARD & NICOLE FISCHELIS
LESS IS MORE
Just looking at these minimalist shapes in serene neutrals brings on a sense of order and calm, a welcome relief from all the free-wheeling self-expression and super-dimensional crafts on runways these days. Michael Kors delved into the feminist icons of the 70s for his Michael Kors Collection, but here the era’s bellbottoms and miniskirts were pared down and purified to their very essence. Korean designer Son Jung Wan referenced the 90s along with futuristic shapes to come up with a funnel-neck cape-sleeved crop-top ensemble. Brandon Maxwell refined his own peplum looks from earlier collections, as in a shapely strapless top over camel pants. Tory Burch continued her journey into the roots of American sportswear this season; her hourglass top over tweedy trousers was the perfect melding of midcentury allure with modern practicality.
TO DYE FOR
Dyeing techniques evolve way past humble hippie tie-dye, as designers explore artisanal traditions, mysticism and botanicals. Dur Doux and Alejandra Alonso Rojas used dye patterns head-to-toe on matching separates, including knits. Joseph Altuzarra, who has been experimenting with craft for several seasons, offered an outstanding show full of patterns that drew from inky Rorschach blots as well as the natural world. Proenza Schouler used a novel technique: dyed ice cubes dripped saturated hues as they melted, creating an ombré effect for a velvet shirtdress. Ulla Johnson offered many different dye-effects; here, an easy pleated maxidress is cut from a shimmering shibori-dyed silk.
PUMP UP THE VOLUME
Big shapes are part of next fall’s fashion vocabulary, an antidote to the revival of bodycon. Bibhu Mohapatra used pleats — a key design detail this season — for a sweeping maxi-dress with an asymmetric hem. Emerging designer Kate Barton uses technology, shape-engineering and experimental draping methods for her sculptural silhouettes. Marc Jacobs transformed utility pieces like cargo-pocketed parkas into high fashion must-haves by blowing up the proportions to couture-like volumes. Samuel Westerberg of Alpha showed gender-neutral tailored items in extra-large versions.
OH MY GODDESS
Goddess drapery, the kind found on ancient sculpture and Madame Grés couture, never loses its power to captivate. Sylvie Millstein of Hellessy captured her label’s laidback aesthetic with a cozy rose-colored goddess dress, while Jason Wu and Joseph Altuzarra showed jersey columns that looked as comfortable as they were glamourous; Altuzarra’s version had a draped panel that functioned as a dramatic hood. Alejandra Alonso Rojas made the look a bit more casual by topping a draped dip-dyed skirt with a cropped cable-knit sweater. Sally Lapointe used a lustrous bottle green fabric for a sensuous, liquid effect, and Dion Lee gave the ancient muse a modern, sporty edge with a thick drawstring that anchored body-hugging gathers.
SPONSORED BY
CURATORS
Founder/Creative Director of MintModa
Fashion/Art Forecasting and FGI Board Member
Hilldun Corporation’s CEO and FGI Board Member
DAY ONE
NYFW kicks off with a happy crafty vibe at Jahnkoy and Bulan, while tailoring gets an update at Terry Singh, Atelier Cillian and Libertine. Florals look right for fall at 3.1 Phillip Lim, Collina Strada and Christian Siriano, and head-to-toe black creates magic at APOTTs, Dion Lee and Jonathan Simkhai.
Victor De Souza’s vision is creative and unique. His collections are not affected by the passage of time, in fact they aim to harmonize the past and the present. In many respects, they are unique and unusual.
DAY TWO
Cargo gets elevated at Marc Jacobs, Rag & Bone and Heron Preston, lingerie looks come out from under at Dion Lee, Area and Anna Sui, denim goes artisanal at Derek Lam 10 Crosby and Sally Lapointe, and animal prints continue to evolve with butterfly markings at Prabal Gurung and zebra stripes at Alexander Wang.
I’ve only known about this brand for less than a year. The mother/daughter team of Cynthia and Najla Burt won me over on our first encounter. Such determination!
DAY THREE
Global culture is celebrated at Jahnkoy, Sea and Ulla Johnson, motorcycle jackets prove their iconic stature at Rag & Bone, Proenza Schouler and Sukiena, plaids mix mod, grunge and punk influences at Adeam, Vivienne Tam, Snow Xue Gao and Anna Sui, and dimensional sweaters rule at APOTTS, Alejandra Alonso Rojas, Melke and Eckhaus Latta.
Puppets and Puppets may be a cult brand at this point, but it’s drawing a lot of eyes to its thoroughly unique viewpoint. Elevated from last season's show, today I saw wearable and desirable clothing.
DAY FOUR
Valentine’s day gets an edge with shocking pink at Carolina Herrera and Christian Siriano, while leather goes supple and sensual at Brandon Maxwell, Proenza Schouler, Bibhu Mohapatra and Coach. Silver is the metal of choice at Laquan Smith and Anna Sui and ruffles complete the romantic mood at Aknvas and Ulla Johnson.
Sometimes what’s old is really new again. I’ve followed the career of Custo Barcelona for many decades and through many iterations, large and small. Now, Custo is back with the same spirit and verve that his past collections have always exhibited.
DAY FIVE
Minimalism offers a welcome calm with tailored neutrals from Michael Kors Collection, Brandon Maxwell and Tory Burch. Artisanal dyeing goes next level at Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler and Ulla Johnson. Silhouettes get voluminous at Bibhu Mohapatra, Marc Jacobs and emerging designer Kate Barton, while sensuous goddess drapery hugs the body at Hellessy, Jason Wu, Sally Lapointe and Dion Lee.
Bach Mai is not only one himself, but he designs for them! And stars of all statures. His clothing is impeccably made, dramatic, sexy, and elegant - qualities that are often hard to balance in any one garment. He does it well.
DAY SIX
Suitings get deconstructed at Ashlyn, Thom Browne and Luar. Fairytale characters come to life at Rentrayage, Victorian Maiden, Maison de Hoe and Ph5. Maxi-Coats stride down runways at Michael Kors Collection, Christian Cowan, Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler and FromWhere, and escapist fantasy reigns at Rodarte, Custo, Colin Locasio and La Fuori.
Erin Beatty has re-emerged as the designer behind the brand Rentrayage. Her former creative endeavor was the much-loved brand, SUNO. Though there is virtually no similarity between Suno and Rentrayage, Erin’s style and aesthetic permeates every piece.
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Nabys Vielman launched his first atelier in Venezuela in the 1990s, and since then, he has built a brand that embodies timelessness and resilience. Vielman's work is characterized by its boldness and vibrancy. Renowned for his use of geometric patterns and elegant silhouettes, he skillfully blends avant-garde aesthetics with refined sophistication.
