The tailoring revolution continues this season, refreshed for Spring in appealing prints. Peter Do debuted his first collection for Helmut Lang with a slim-legged pantsuit emblazoned with a New York taxicab motif. Collina Strada’s Hillary Taymour experimented with A.I. for her collaged plaid-meets-floral prints. Prints enlivened pantsuits at Kobi Halperin with a gorgeous aqua-to-green flora and Terry Singh cut his signature skirt suit from a lustrous floral brocade. Ralph Lauren spun floral denim into a natty ensemble that consisted of a fitted blazer over luxurious devoré velvet jeans.

Yellow has been edging into fashion lately, but this spring the sunny color comes into its own with head-to-toe monochrome looks. Kobi Halperin used a golden olive oil color for an easy pantsuit with a slightly 70s feel, while Aaron Potts at A. Potts cut saffron cotton into a workwear-influenced ensemble. Stuart Vevers at Coach layered a yellow see-through lace sheath over black leather undies for a sweet yet tough combo. Prabal Gurung constructed a flowing dress out of rectangles of pleated lemon-hued linen, and Peter Do at Helmut Lang went effortless in an egg-yolk colored jersey pullover layered over a matching silk slip.

The penchant for wearing corsets and bras on the outside gains momentum for next spring, perhaps a result of the body positive movement and the pandemic-era craze for shapewear. Ralph Lauren‘s corset takes its cue from a menswear waistcoat with its covered button front and pointy hem detail. Prabal Gurung used pleated linen for an architectural bustier with a modern peplum effect. Christian Siriano incorporated a ribbon-laced corset into a black satin blazer and Collina Strada showed a delicate mashup of bralette, corset, chiffon panels, and lingerie hooks. Kobi Halperin and Svitlana Bevza of Bevza both showed bralettes coordinated with matching separates. Bevza‘s had a graphic, minimalist quality, true to the Ukrainian designer’s label.

True workwear has been a touchpoint for several seasons, an important reference that encompasses the uniforms of essential workers, the interest in long-lasting practical clothes, upcycled dead-stock fabrics, and other current concerns. Stuart Vevers at Coach showed a sturdy overall in a subtly aged khaki, while A. Potts lightened his workwear silhouettes with airy shirting. Terry Singh, a master of tailoring, went casual with a cropped chore jacket over an apron-layered skirt. Siying Qu and Haoran Li of Private Policy used recyclable polyester for a chore jacket-and-shorts set in a soft over-scale plaid that seemed airbrushed or spray-painted. Clara Son ornamented her uniform-like set with little dangling chains, underlining the authentic utility influence.