Denim continues to lose its rough and tumble reputation and goes even softer and dreamier for next Spring. Dion Lee gave his signature sexy silhouettes a workwear edge this season, with a utility pocket-detailed bra and slouchy ombré jeans. Eckhaus Latta laminated their denim skirt in a metallic mint green, and Patbo used beaded feather motifs ornamented with marabou. Ralph Lauren’s denim was devoré, beaded, embroidered, and printed, while Kobi Halperin went pale and minimal. Ulla Johnson, master of craft techniques, used a bleached-out X-pattern for an appealing short set.

Although silver has been the metal of choice of late, gold is making a surprise comeback, bringing its warm resplendence to all kinds of items and silhouettes. Ralph Lauren did a simple strapless sarong gown in liquid gold, while Christian Siriano went for a more dimensional effect with a metallic cloqué ensemble, complete with matching bralette. A. Potts used a crushed foil-like surface for an opulent take on the utility jumpsuit. Bronx and Banco continued their exploration of sexy party looks with a shimmering fringed crop-top-and-skirt set, while Raleigh Workshop used golden paint to elevate an upcycled workwear look.

Delicate lace brings a lingerie mood to separates and dresses for any gender expression. Jason Wu used black lace appliqués on a bias-seamed gown. Libertine’s short set had trailing strips of galloon lace, creating an edgy, deconstructed look. Alejandro Gómez Palomo of Palomo Spain showed many of his boudoir-influenced sets on men, including fluid lilac pajama pants and a lacy peignoir robe. Ulla Johnson used a pale yellow for a summery cami-and-slip set with asymmetric hemlines, and Bronx and Banco’s bralette and pant set gained visual impact from a vivid fuchsia hue. 

Ruffles, a time-honored detail that adds whimsy and dimension, show no signs of slowing down for next spring. Son Jung Wan’s frothy organza layers topped fluid flounces for a champagne-colored look that was pure confection. Kate and Laura Mulleavy at Rodarte, known for their edgy yet romantic aesthetic, cut vertical bias ruffles into an enchanting lilac minidress. Ulla Johnson gave her shocking pink button-up shirtdress a bit of frippery with narrow self-ruffles, and Christian Siriano topped sheer pants with a matching mille-feuille capelet. Bronx and Banco’s one shoulder frock were fashioned entirely of dense ruffles, in an eye-popping shade of marigold yellow.