EDITION FOUR: TUESDAY FEBRUARY 13, 2024
BY SHARON GRAUBARD & NICOLE FISCHELIS
L’AMOUR EN ROUGE
Red symbolizes heightened emotion, courage and love. On fall runways, and just in time for Valentine’s Day, passionate reds invigorate everything from cozy sweaters to sharp tailoring and frilly gowns. Aknvas designer Christian Juul Nielsen used a brilliant crimson for a dimensional sweater set adorned with playful pompoms. Travis Hamilton of Negris LeBrum cut a sleek pantsuit from scarlet ostrich-textured leather. Gabriela Hearst showed a spectacular lipstick red coat looked like fur but was actually sheared cashmere. Anthony Rubio accented his ruffled negligee look with high-low hemline, and Prabal Gurung brought out red’s sophisticated side with a flowing maxi-dress, its slit front revealing lacquered ruby-red pants.
TIE IT WITH A BOW
Bows are big fashion news this season, a key element of the “coquette” trend that has taken over TikTok. Sandy Liang, the downtown designer who arguably started the current bow craze, festooned a simple bubble-gum pink sheath with her signature knots. Stuart Vevers of Coach went big and bold, using a giant bow motif for an intarsia sweater and pinning a floppy version on the front of a slightly crushed pink taffeta midi-skirt. Emma Gage, founder and designer at Melke, also went bow-crazy; she decorated a pink knit sheath with multiple narrow ribbon-ties, while jumbo pink bows gave her black column dress extra va-va-voom.
SAY IT WITH FLOWERS
Flowers for spring, yes, but also for fall-winter. Aknvas covered a denim look in self-fabric rosettes, while Ulla Johnson used an appealing purple blossom print for one of her obsession-worthy peasant dresses. Wes Gordon at Carolina Herrera enlivened a wool flannel coat with peony embroideries, and Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia at Monse emblazoned a sheer tee with a surrealistic flower. Nardos Imam of Nardos took a couture approach with her intricately embellished gowns; a standout featured bouquet of embroidered and beaded pink blossoms that cascaded from halter neckline to floor-skimming hem.
SHEERLY BELOVED
The use of ultra-sheer, skin-revealing fabrics has gained momentum in recent seasons, celebrating the body beautiful and spurring the need for meant-to-been underpinnings, particularly bikini briefs. Olivia Cheng of Dauphinette covered a gossamer cami and slip skirt set with bejeweled safety pins for a soft-punk look, while Anthony Cucculelli and Anna Shaheen of Cucculelli Shaheen glammed up a see-through button-front shirt with silver bugle beads. Carly Mark of Puppets and Puppets spun delicate organza into a simple shift dress for this, her farewell showing. Sally Lapointe trimmed her elegantly sheer black column dress with cream-colored marabou feathers, and Aknvas showed a sequined cosmetic-toned lace sheath, accented by visible black undies.
ONES TO WATCH
By Gary Wassner
It’s refreshing to see a collection that has no interest in trends. The pieces designed by Rachel Scott for Diotima, founded in 2021, are all unique and artisanal. The crochet pieces making up the bulk of the collection are all hand made in Jamaica. They exemplify the unique skills needed to execute in such an impeccable manner.