Lightweight plaids in fresh colors are key for next spring-summer, with offbeat touches bringing a twist to the pattern’s classic appeal. Henry Zankov of Zankov showed plaid trousers accented with black piping and styled with a striped polo for a matched-yet-mismatched effect. Ralph Lauren used a mix of blue-on-blue plaids for layered shirts, complete with a plaid necktie and sarong-tied wrap. Todd Snyder presented an elegant plaid short set, part of a collection inspired by the 1920s French Riviera home of Gerald and Sara Murphy, the glamorous American expats. Anna Sui accented her pink-and-melon plaid mini kilt with a panel of cotton lace. Travis Hamilton of Negris Lebrum, cut an over-scaled daffodil yellow plaid into a perfect summer pantsuit; the slightly nipped-in jacket contrasted nicely with wide-leg, slouchy trousers.

After seasons of grungy street-style and post-Covid casualness, there’s a pent-up desire for something pretty. Enter the lady dress, the perfect antidote to the work-from-home-in-sweats blues. Sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy at Rodarte are masters of femme-themed storytelling. Among several appealing choices was a black-and-white rose print frock, trimmed in white eyelet lace. Alexandra O’Neill of Markarian showed a floral cloqué number with rounded square neckline and tulip sleeves. Frederick Anderson offered a lovely purple floral midi dress in flowing silk; this season the designer was inspired by his travels to Northern Africa. Dennis Basso offered a short-sleeved sheath with a flounced hem, its surface embellished with golden soutache. Michael Kors decorated his easy belted dress with self-fabric rosettes; the slightly crumpled fabric, earthy olive color and offhand approach to the appliqués gave the look a rustic yet elegant charm. Wes Gordon at Carolina Herrera was true the label’s ladylike DNA with a draped halter style in a lemon-yellow poppy-print that would bring a ray of sunshine to any occasion, from an elegant ladies’ lunch to a summer wedding.

Sheer fabrics like organzas, chiffons, voiles, and tulles bring ethereal appeal to lighter-than-air separates and dresses. Simorra, a Barcelona-based label, showed head-to-toe sheer layers in a surprising chartreuse. Dennis Basso used the palest green for a delicately ruched and gathered, ankle-skimming dress. Bibhu Mohapatra went poetic with latticed point d’esprit layers in shades of ecru and tangerine. Catherine Holstein of Khaite loosely wove organza into a sculptural top over matching sheer pants. Brandon Maxwell used a sheer fabric for a crystal-studded pencil skirt over a meant-to-be-seen bikini brief; the skirt was styled with a simple white turtleneck, giving the ensemble a low-key chic. Prabal Gurung’s celestial blue caftan was shown over white pleated trousers; deep side slits emphasized the piece’s diaphanous quality.

White lends itself to sculptural shapes; think of classic marble statuary or the biomorphic vases created by modern ceramicists. With white, there are no distractions, just pure form. Norma Kamali layered a handkerchief-hemmed strapless top over a full, draped skirt. Melitta Baumeister is known for her experimentation with volume, as in a ballooning shirtdress, its point collar facing backward. Epperson entitled his collection “Grace”; shown in a vaulted-ceilinged church, his draped volumes and raw edges underlined the spiritual quality of his presentation. Toteme is designed by Elin Kling and Karl Lindman, Swedish-born and New York-based partners in life and work. For their first New York show, the couple was true to their minimalist Scandinavian roots, as in a simple yet precisely cut tee worn atop a twisted chiffon bubble skirt. Kate Barton gave her sleeveless tee interest with a draped panel, and paired it with a curve-hemmed asymmetric skirt. Naeem Khan showed menswear for the first time this season; an embellished ivory blazer over a heavily embroidered sarong had just the right mix of drama and wearability.