EDITION ONE: SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2024
BY SHARON GRAUBARD & NICOLE FISCHELIS
“As we gather as an industry community, we honor and celebrate the creative work and talents of our New York fashion week designers showcasing SS2025 collections. This is a tribute to the vision and dedication to craft by these artists driving our industry forward.”
REDEFINED GENTLEMEN
New York’s Spring Summer ’25 Fashion Week kicked off with Men’s Day, an always-inspiring event. This season, innovative tailoring and gentle tints signaled an updated approach to menswear. Terry Singh loosened up his signature tailored skirt suits with paneled, asymmetrical skirts worn with mismatched jackets or tops. The looks were shown on dancers in choreographed sequences, emphasizing his new sense of movement. LA-based Tristan Detwiler of Stan is known for crafting antique fabrics into laid-back suits and separates; this season was his first New York showing. Jack Sivan of Sivan showed a timeless navy blazer over a khaki skirt, with models staged in refined country picnic settings. Aaron Potts of A. Potts continued his exploration of volume and tailoring for layered monochrome separates. Of — Nothing is a new collection from Brooklyn-based designer Jack Fullerton that combines beautiful fabrics in a subtle palette with utility-influenced shapes. Tarpley designer Tarpley Brooks Jones combined innovative technology with razor-sharp cuts.
SAVE THE GARDEN
A few New York designers staged their shows in New York’s tiny pocket gardens, underlining the need to save these precious patches of nature amid the brick and pavement. Prabal Gurung covered a corseted minidress in starburst flowers for a collection that reflected his newfound optimism. Ese Azenabor showed her lush floral separates and party dresses on a midtown rooftop. Hilary Taymour of Collina Strada presented in a small East Village park and called her breezy collection “Touch Grass.” Johnson Hartig of Libertine showed at the endangered Elizabeth Street Garden in Nolita for a show that was part celebration and part protest; some models, and the designer himself, carried signs that said “Save the Garden.” Mark Badgley and James Mischka of Badgley Mischka showed a packed floral in shades of purple that looked particularly fresh in an abbreviated shorts ensemble.
BY THE SEA
Nautical inspirations are fashion perennials. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler reimagined the influence in a fresh way, as in a slim blazer tucked into button-flap sailor pants. Libertine showed a simple, beachy caftan festooned with a coral motif; coral-embellished sunglasses completed the look. Ralph Lauren is a master of the nautical theme; this time, he updated a classic marinière pullover with a bateau neckline and voluminous proportions. The Salting designers, Michael Ward and Manel Garcia Espejo, expanded their signature code of seaside stripes with a nautical print from the archives at Ratti silk. Another look featured a blazer embellished with a giant sailor’s knot.
RUFFLE OBSESSION
Ruffles have been part of fashion’s vocabulary for a few seasons now, signifying a renewed interest in dressmaking techniques and resonating with an upsurge in romantic self-expression. Christian Siriano used mille-feuille tulle ruffles for an eye-popping aqua minidress, part of a collection inspired by dark fairytales. Collina Strada offered floaty chiffon frills in lingerie-like layers, while Ev Bravado and Téla D’Amore of Who Decides War placed ruffles at the shoulders of a crisp white shirt. Brandon Maxwell showed cascades of pale blue chiffon petals, a nice counterpoint to a sturdy workwear suit. A. Potts brought modernity to a tiered dress with wide tie-dye flounces separated by sheer panels.
DENIM CRAFT
Designers give denim crafty treatments this season, part of the deepening appreciation for all things artisanal. Alaïa, under the brilliant direction of Pieter Mulier, showed voluminous jeans with a circular seam at the hip that echoed the spectacular curves of the Guggenheim Museum, where the collection was shown. A. Potts patchworked various denim textures into an easygoing dress. Libertine scattered crystals over a double denim look. Ralph Lauren evolved a patchwork denim trucker with a mix of plaids, worn over an indigo batik sarong. Sermon Series, designed by Santanna “Saint” Hayes and Deklyen Tormier, offered their own version of the patchwork: a collage of gradated washes mixed with indigo-based prints for a boxy overshirt shown over matching slim 5-pocket jeans.
FOREVER PINK
The preference for pink shows no signs of slowing down. This season, many designers went soft and gentle, in shades that ranged from almost-shocking to the palest petal. Prabal Gurung decorated a vivid pink mini cocktail dress with oversized white paillettes; the dress featured a train, a key detail this season. Clara Son gave her bisque-pink menswear separates dimension with a contrast of matte and shine. Catherine Holstein of Khaite, ever the modernist, showed a cowl-necked asymmetric dress in a barely-there tint of orchid. Pieter Mulier of Alaïa offered a fresh take on pink for a sculptural goddess dress and his ultra-refined “sweatpants,” made even more special with a peplum-like flounce at the hip.
ONES TO WATCH
By Gary Wassner
GRACE LING is about a sense of unconventional elegance and intelligent femininity. By fusing 3D technology with traditional methods of craft, the intricacies of her designs are achieved through the precision of cut and exquisite pattern-making. With an emphasis on superior materials, the pieces are ageless.