Tie-dyes and other dye methods have long lost their hippie or indigenous roots, and designers’ dye techniques become more sophisticated each season. Wei Lin and Zoe Champion of PH5, known for their sustainably sourced knits, used innovative technologies for ombré effects. Jason Wu was inspired by Chinese calligraphy for his screen-printed pieces that left some of the under-fabric exposed; a crinkled finish added to the artisanal feel. Jonathan Cohen went luxurious with tie-dyed cashmere sweaters and a skirt embroidered with beaded starbursts. Kim Shui, inspired by the Japanese art of kintsugi, showed a splotchy dyed skirt that was covered in sequins for a perfect-imperfect result. Kobi Halperin, in his show notes, talked about being inspired by the Rothko Chapel in Houston and the idea of us all being “children of the sea.” The rhythmic, wavy lines of his tie-dyed ensembles conjured that flowing, we’re-all-connected spirit.

Active sports gear has infiltrated fashion in a way that goes beyond labels like “athleisure” or “gym-core.” Sport influences are now just part of fashion’s vernacular, a testament to the way fashion absorbs and reflects current lifestyles. Willy Chavarria titled his collection “América”; that accent references his Mexican-American roots. This season, he’s collaborating with Adidas for sneakers and some pieces, like a ruffled, Victorian-inspired active ensemble and a vintage-y, color-blocked track set. Tarpley brought his sharp tailoring to a tech jacket tucked into complex track pants. Ib Kamara of Off-White brought elegance to a running suit with a corset-paneled zip jacket; the collection was entitled “Duty Free,” reflecting the label’s global DNA. Wei Lin and Zoe Champion of PH5, known for their sustainably sourced knits, showed a chic sports bra above trompe l’oeil printed running shorts. Terry Singh paired authentic sports jerseys with his signature pleated skirts, creating a nice contrast between sport and sartorial.

The torso, vessel of vital organs, center of core strength, and symbol of fertility and beauty, becomes a focal point this season as designers (and consumers) continue to embrace the exposed midriff. Alaïa showed a mesh bandeau under a tailored jacket and the season’s short full skirt, all in a peaceful shade of palest taupe. Brandon Maxwell styled a cropped, long-sleeved knit over a matching tank dress, its top rolled down to create a hip-slung tube skirt. Monse wrapped scalloped bands into a structured crop top, and Ralph Lauren offered a long-line bra top in lacy crochet. Simkhai also showed a bandeau bra, a key item this season, but his was made special with dimensional flower-shaped leather appliqués in black and white. A low-hip skirt, covered in the leather blossoms, completed the ensemble.

Lace is a historic fabric that speaks to tradition, ideas of luxury, artisanship, and the often-under-appreciated work of women who tatted lace or crocheted doilies at home. Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia of Monse used the historic textile as trim for an easy, oversized shirt, topped with a sleeveless jacket. Phillip Lim for 3.1 Phillip Lim, gave lace a sporty touch for a head-to-toe look in gorgeous periwinkle, accented with black bands at the neck and shoulders. Jonathan Simkhai of Simkhai was inspired by a photo of his mother on her wedding day; the textured lace she wore was from his grandfather’s lace mill in Iran. Ulla Johnson is known for her experimentation and elevation of crafts. This season, she cut cotton lace into easy tunics that she showed on both male and female models. Catherine Holstein of Khaite said she was “softened” by the experience of motherhood this season. Doily-like crochet discs were spun into a long layer that brought some of that tenderness to an ensemble that featured a tailored jacket over organza pants.